Havasupai Canyon Hike

Havasupai Canyon Hike

At 2:00 P.M. on April 10, 2005 we departed Phoenix on one of the most spectacular hikes in the United States. The Havasupai Canyon hike in the western end of the Grand Canyon has some of the most beautiful waterfalls that exist. Our group of hikers consists of people from all parts of the country. My son, Robert came from Sarasota, Florida, and Jackie, Lynn and Brenda came from Ogden, Utah. All of the rest did come from Phoenix though.

In order to rendezvous with the pack horses which would carry most of our gear to the lodge in Supai which is the Native American village in the canyon, we would have to be at the Hualapai parking area before 11:00 A.M. on Monday, April 11^th so we decided to spend the night in Peach Springs. That way we could depart Peach Springs and drive the 65 miles and arrive before the allotted time.

We got up on Monday morning and drove to the trailhead arriving at about 9:45 in the morning. After turning our gear over to the pack horse handlers, we started our 8.1 mile descent into the canyon. Upon descending the first mile and a half of switchbacks into the canyon, we could see that the climb back up could be tough so we were all glad that we were only going to have to carry the minimal amount of gear back out. After reaching the bottom of the switchbacks the next 4 miles or so of the trail were in the river bed. Where there was one point in the hike that created confusion on a previous hike, causing a 3 mile detour, the trail was much better marked this time. The last 2 ½ miles were much greener and more relaxing. At approximately 2:00 P.M. we crossed the bridge across Havasupai Creek and entered Supai. We then arrived at the Lodge and checked in at about 2:30 P.M. What made us all happy was that no one had many sore spots on their feet.

On Tuesday, April 12^th we made the ultimate hike. Where we originally wanted to hike to the Colorado River and back, a 20 mile hike, we opted for a shorter version by only going to Beaver Falls and back. This shortened the hike to only 11.75 miles but covered all of the difficulties of the longer version. We departed the Lodge at about 8:45 A.M. and started down the trail toward the campground. After hiking about 1.75 miles we came to the turnoff to Navajo Falls. In my opinion the most beautiful falls in the canyon. Maybe not as impressive as Havasupai or Mooney falls but more beautiful. The only way to get the full effect of the beauty of Navajo Falls is to walk across a fallen tree which is about 12” to 15” in diameter and about 25’ long. Only three of our group opted to cross the tree but when we did, we were rewarded by the most beautiful display of falls and blue water,

After leaving Navajo Falls, we went about 1 more mile to the top of Havasu Falls. Havasu Falls is one of the most photographed falls in the United States, the other being Mooney Falls which would be the next stop on our hike. One advantage to hiking this trail with a person who has done it before is that we get a chance to see some of the more easily missed viewpoints of each set of falls, both at the top and the bottom. From the top we could see the beauty of the travertine dams and the crystal clear blue waters of the pools.

At the bottom of Havasu Falls we stopped to look around and even went to the Grotto, a cave in the travertine cliffs where water seeped through and formed beautiful shapes like stalactites.

After a slight rest, we proceeded on through the campground to the third, and more challenging set of falls. The Mooney Falls which are about ¾ mile down stream from Havasu Falls. From the top of the falls the scenery is wonderful and the pools below are beautiful, but now the challenge. We must each descend 189 feet down the travertine cliff to the bottom. After a few switchbacks we came to an opening of a tunnel. The sign above the opening reads “Enter at your own risk!” That is where the trail goes. Inside the tunnel are foot holds and the trail is about as steep as a ladder. The tunnel makes a turn and goes about 30 feet and then opens to a second vertical tunnel. Once we pass through both tunnels we are greeted with about a 50 foot vertical drop with other foot holds and chains with steel shafts for handholds. There are even two primitive ladders we have to climb down. To make matters worse, the spray and minerals from the falls make the rock wet and slippery. The going the rest of the way is a very slow pace to aid in the safety of the hikers. Once at the bottom we are rewarded with the accomplishment of the climb down, but also are reminded that we must go back up on the way back.

After another rest we proceed further down the trail. The trail is now what is referred to as a “Primitive Trail” which is unmarked and changes from time to time. To make it even more challenging, we have to make 5 creek crossings going down, and 5 more coming back. These crossings are done at travertine dams where the water is only up to waist deep. Although the current can be swift and the water is cold, the crossings can be done safely. About 1 mile before Beaver Falls we come to a point in the trail where there is a palm tree. At this point the trail ends into about a 20 foot vertical rock with a rope hanging down. The rope is the continuation of the trail at this point and we each have to climb the rock, using the rope to continue. After going up the rope the trail becomes steep in places and becomes a very difficult trail due to having to scale some places and hike along a ledge at other places. After we arrived at Beaver Falls the trail remained about 50 feet above the creek. The cutoff to the falls is another difficult trail to follow and due to the time, I suggested that we start our return to the Lodge. Some asked how much farther it was to the river and I informed them that it was at least another 4 miles, with many more crossings just to get to the river and then we’d have to return. Since Beaver Falls are not that spectacular we all agreed to return. The return to the Lodge was uneventful and we arrived about 5:00 P.M. Most of the hikers started running out of water about the campground on the return trip but were able to finish with no problems.

On Wednesday it was decided that hikers could do what ever they wanted. Some hiked to some of the falls, some just relaxed and some took photographs. This day of rest was worthwhile since we would be hiking out the next day.

On Thursday the time had come to return to Phoenix. At 6:00 A.M after leaving our duffle bags for the horses to take to the trailhead I started out with most of the group of hikers. Three of the faster hikers decided to leave about an hour and a half after the rest of us which worked out well since we all arrived at the trailhead at about the same time. Since our duffle bags arrived about 20 minutes after we did it gave us a chance to rest and drink some of the water we had left in the vans. After recovering our duffle bags, we returned to Phoenix and arrived about 4:30 P.M.

In this hikers opinion, this is one of the best hikes in Arizona whether you decide to camp or stay in the Lodge. I would recommend it highly for most people. If you are not up to the challenge of the hike portion, arrangements can be made to either ride in by horseback, or even by helicopter. The scenery is great and it’s an opportunity to see how the Native Americans live.